The cure was to use a C clamp and give the sides a light squeeze. The mast slide down and into place.
Most of the turn buckles are hard to turn, which makes the process a little slow, but they'll work for now.
We launch tomorrow morning
Pics!
Friday, May 28, 2010
the rig is up
All went good. The mast was not fitting into the step base well. There was room for/aft, but side to side was really tight. We fussed with it for a while.
The cure was to use a C clamp and give the sides a light squeeze. The mast slide down and into place.
Most of the turn buckles are hard to turn, which makes the process a little slow, but they'll work for now.
We launch tomorrow morning
Pics!
The cure was to use a C clamp and give the sides a light squeeze. The mast slide down and into place.
Most of the turn buckles are hard to turn, which makes the process a little slow, but they'll work for now.
We launch tomorrow morning
Pics!
Monday, May 24, 2010
Engine runs, going in the water!
It’s been a whirlwind of activity at the boat over the last couple of weeks. The big tasks had to do with the engine. It sat idle for a couple years, maybe more. I had a few hiccups along the way. 1st I didn’t know much about alignment and how important it is in boats. So when I planned to align the engine to the shaft I was surprised/ disappointed to find that while I have 2 adjustable motor mounts on the starboard side, I have two fixed ones to port. This by itself was not a problem, but the lag bolts went into really soft wood. West systems has a series of booklets with tons of step by step instructions. Using their guidelines I potted new bolts. Basically you drill out the bad and fill it with thickened epoxy then put a bolt coated with grease in the mix. Let it cure and the next day the bolt unthreads and you’re good to go. Sounds easy, and it is, but it was time consuming.
Once I had something solid to work with I needed to make new rubber mounts for the port side. Someone in the yard had a roll of ¼ fiber re-enforced rubber mat. I cut new pads and drilled out the center so the bolt would keep them from wondering off. Once all this was done aligning the engine was fairly straight forward. Then I went about replacing all the hoses for the cooling and fuel system. New exhaust hose was ran, the stand pipe was installed, new gaskets here and there. The fuel tank had gas in it but the deck cap was not in place for some time and water had to have gotten into the tank so I went about draining most of the tank, enough to be able to lift it out and down the ladder. So now I have a ¼ full tank and 3 jerry cans to take to haz-mat. During a spark plug change I found the #4 pug wire had a worn/ melted spot. Time is running out so rather than ordering a new set I found one at an auto parts store. It’s too long, but it works for now. The rest of the crucial engine wiring was gone through. All connections were cleaned or replaced and a new battery installed. Lastly an oil change adding a quart of marvel mystery oil. Not sure what it is but everyone on the A-4 sites swear by it so I’ll be a sheep and follow. So, with much maintenance out of the way I ran a temporary fuel line out to the cockpit (fuel tank still needs to be cleaned out) and into a small gas can. It was with great pleasure that the good old Atomic 4 fired up without much fuss at all! After a short period I was not satisfied with the lack of cooling water coming out of the exhaust so I shut her down. Between the all the new hoses, standpipe and exhaust hose, I expected the engine would have to run for a while to fill up the cooling passages and then the stand pipe but it was not really taking much water from the buckets. After a phone-a-friend, I removed the water pump impeller, looks ok but I’m going to replace anyways. I used a hose barb fitting to flush the engine with a garden hose. At first I only had a trickle of water coming out the exhaust end, but then a whole mess of black yuk came out. It took a while for the water to run clear. I tried to reinstall the impeller and it did take more water, but I think it could be better. So, I have a new impeller on my list of parts to pick up tomorrow. I had some trouble finding a locking nut for the stuffing box. There was no nut installed when I got the boat. Finding one was a real nightmare. The only option was to order one; it could be here in a week. (more on why that will not work in a minute). So, I stopped by Second Wave, a local marine store that sells used and consigned stuff. No luck finding a locking nut but they did have the end cup in a bin of loose bits. I purchased that for $2 and went back to the boat to cut both ends off leaving only a threaded nut. And now all is well. 
I also had to order a new nut and monel pins for the folding prop. That’s all installed and greased up. I had the shaft coupling faced at Seattle prop down the street, they had it ready next day. So the boat is ready to float. The engine was the big issue. If I couldn’t get it running I was going to side tie the dinghy and get someone to help maneuver her to a slip. Looks like that’s not going to be needed now. And on that note, the boat yard is pretty empty and there were lots of give-always when people were leaving. I got a new dinghy, just what I wanted! I was not looking forward to towing the 9 foot Avon around. I wanted a lighter hard dinghy that could be stored on deck, so something like 8 feet tops. The one I got is about 8 feet, has a dagger board and rudder, and outboard mount. All I need to do is rig a mast and boom and I can have a sailing dinghy too! Maybe Lilli will be able to sail it when she comes out this summer. So, the big news is the boat is going in Saturday morning. Friday morning the truck is coming to load her and bring her to the other side of the yard where the crane lives. Friday morning I’ll step the mast and secure the shrouds. I’ll get some paint on the keel where the blocking was and tidy up some loose ends. Then Saturday we’ll launch with the tide, around 8:30.I ‘m going to keep the boat at the marina in South Park until Monday, just in case something leaks and I need to haul out. But planning for the best, on Monday I’ll motor down the Duwamish to Winterhawk’s new home. I spent a lot of time trying to find some place to keep the boat without spending a pile. I thought about dropping the hook in Quartermaster Harbor on Vashon, I looked around for a private mooring ball without luck. But thanks to Google maps I found two places on the Duwamish where there are boats moored but not really in a marina. The first turned out to be a real dump. I decided to visit the second and if I didn’t have luck Elliot Bay marina had one available for $360. The second place is in a very industrial area. There are 5-6 boat houses with a couple open slips behind an industiral machinist place. I knocked on a couple doors and spoke to a nice lady. Turns out she had room for one sailboat for $150 a month. It’s a no frills place, but it’s down river of the 1st ave bridge so unless it’s a really high tide I don’t have to worry about any bridges (the Harbor Island Bridge is going to be really close if the tide is in). Best of all, its 5 minutes from the house and Alia can walk there from work. The next few days are going to be busy finishing the cooling system, installing cleats so I have something to secure dock lines too, installing the bilge pumps, some hoses, fuel tanks and prepping the mast. Can’t wait!
Once I had something solid to work with I needed to make new rubber mounts for the port side. Someone in the yard had a roll of ¼ fiber re-enforced rubber mat. I cut new pads and drilled out the center so the bolt would keep them from wondering off. Once all this was done aligning the engine was fairly straight forward. Then I went about replacing all the hoses for the cooling and fuel system. New exhaust hose was ran, the stand pipe was installed, new gaskets here and there. The fuel tank had gas in it but the deck cap was not in place for some time and water had to have gotten into the tank so I went about draining most of the tank, enough to be able to lift it out and down the ladder. So now I have a ¼ full tank and 3 jerry cans to take to haz-mat. During a spark plug change I found the #4 pug wire had a worn/ melted spot. Time is running out so rather than ordering a new set I found one at an auto parts store. It’s too long, but it works for now. The rest of the crucial engine wiring was gone through. All connections were cleaned or replaced and a new battery installed. Lastly an oil change adding a quart of marvel mystery oil. Not sure what it is but everyone on the A-4 sites swear by it so I’ll be a sheep and follow. So, with much maintenance out of the way I ran a temporary fuel line out to the cockpit (fuel tank still needs to be cleaned out) and into a small gas can. It was with great pleasure that the good old Atomic 4 fired up without much fuss at all! After a short period I was not satisfied with the lack of cooling water coming out of the exhaust so I shut her down. Between the all the new hoses, standpipe and exhaust hose, I expected the engine would have to run for a while to fill up the cooling passages and then the stand pipe but it was not really taking much water from the buckets. After a phone-a-friend, I removed the water pump impeller, looks ok but I’m going to replace anyways. I used a hose barb fitting to flush the engine with a garden hose. At first I only had a trickle of water coming out the exhaust end, but then a whole mess of black yuk came out. It took a while for the water to run clear. I tried to reinstall the impeller and it did take more water, but I think it could be better. So, I have a new impeller on my list of parts to pick up tomorrow. I had some trouble finding a locking nut for the stuffing box. There was no nut installed when I got the boat. Finding one was a real nightmare. The only option was to order one; it could be here in a week. (more on why that will not work in a minute). So, I stopped by Second Wave, a local marine store that sells used and consigned stuff. No luck finding a locking nut but they did have the end cup in a bin of loose bits. I purchased that for $2 and went back to the boat to cut both ends off leaving only a threaded nut. And now all is well. 
I also had to order a new nut and monel pins for the folding prop. That’s all installed and greased up. I had the shaft coupling faced at Seattle prop down the street, they had it ready next day. So the boat is ready to float. The engine was the big issue. If I couldn’t get it running I was going to side tie the dinghy and get someone to help maneuver her to a slip. Looks like that’s not going to be needed now. And on that note, the boat yard is pretty empty and there were lots of give-always when people were leaving. I got a new dinghy, just what I wanted! I was not looking forward to towing the 9 foot Avon around. I wanted a lighter hard dinghy that could be stored on deck, so something like 8 feet tops. The one I got is about 8 feet, has a dagger board and rudder, and outboard mount. All I need to do is rig a mast and boom and I can have a sailing dinghy too! Maybe Lilli will be able to sail it when she comes out this summer. So, the big news is the boat is going in Saturday morning. Friday morning the truck is coming to load her and bring her to the other side of the yard where the crane lives. Friday morning I’ll step the mast and secure the shrouds. I’ll get some paint on the keel where the blocking was and tidy up some loose ends. Then Saturday we’ll launch with the tide, around 8:30.I ‘m going to keep the boat at the marina in South Park until Monday, just in case something leaks and I need to haul out. But planning for the best, on Monday I’ll motor down the Duwamish to Winterhawk’s new home. I spent a lot of time trying to find some place to keep the boat without spending a pile. I thought about dropping the hook in Quartermaster Harbor on Vashon, I looked around for a private mooring ball without luck. But thanks to Google maps I found two places on the Duwamish where there are boats moored but not really in a marina. The first turned out to be a real dump. I decided to visit the second and if I didn’t have luck Elliot Bay marina had one available for $360. The second place is in a very industrial area. There are 5-6 boat houses with a couple open slips behind an industiral machinist place. I knocked on a couple doors and spoke to a nice lady. Turns out she had room for one sailboat for $150 a month. It’s a no frills place, but it’s down river of the 1st ave bridge so unless it’s a really high tide I don’t have to worry about any bridges (the Harbor Island Bridge is going to be really close if the tide is in). Best of all, its 5 minutes from the house and Alia can walk there from work. The next few days are going to be busy finishing the cooling system, installing cleats so I have something to secure dock lines too, installing the bilge pumps, some hoses, fuel tanks and prepping the mast. Can’t wait!
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Pics worth a thousand words.
the boat: Yankee 30 MKIII
power: A-4
Trying to get this boat back together and in the water, installed the cutlass bearing and shaft that came with the boat. When I slid the shaft in, it comes close to meeting up with the center of the engine shaft/coupling. If I give it a little pressure it lines up fine. I can blot it in place but see the rubber hose on the stuffing box flexes a little.
Not sure what the acceptable tolerances are, this is my 1st inboard.
Question is, should I align the engine to get closer or it this OK?
not sure what the exhaust thing on the left is for, I have a complete spare engine. Will not fit in the Yankee.
Standpipe. I like the idea, and I have all the parts. Going this way rather than the waterlift. At least to get her in the water.
Adjustable motor-mounts.
not sure what this hose is, crankcase breather?
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Thru-hulls
My new work situation, that of being semi retired has allowed me to get in some quality time in on the boat.
The bottom is now 100% painted, even the spots where the stands were. The boot stripe got it’s final coat yesterday. Now the tape is off, the boat is really looking nice. Getting the waterline on really makes the topsides look sleeker.
I’ve been slowly knocking out the thru-hull upgrade. The boat came to me with ball valves screwed onto the thru-hulls. While this seemed to work fine for the last 30 years, I wanted to make sure they were as bullet proof as possible. Most of the ball valves were heavily corroded and took some serious leverage to open/ close. This created some noticeable flex at the base of the valve/ hull.
Due to time and money, both lacking. I chose to make my backing plates out of white oak. I’ve used it for exterior bits before on the Westerly’s companionway. I know it holds up to the environment fine. It’s also cheap, and easy enough to cut/ drill.
Originally I planned to have a single block, but once I looked into it closer, the hull has this sort of nipple due to the thru-hulls being flush mounted. So, I ended up making a second block, ½ as thick and making the center much larger. I used the grinder and the flap disc to form the back side of the block to fit to the nipple. Adding a single layer of mat when each was epoxied to the hull, along with epoxy thickened with 406 filler made sure each thin plate was sealed on the backside and had a good surface area to bond.
Once the first plate had cured I put the bolts in through the backside of the main block. When I counter sunk the blocks the counter sink was just a hair smaller than the bolt head which turns out to work really well. By threading the nut down the bolt was pulled into the counter sink and locked into place.
Now working with wet epoxy and thru-hulls is not the best one person job. Lacking a personal assistant, I had to make it work. 1st off, doing the main block after the thin one had cured made the job simpler. I tried to do both blocks once and it was a stressful endeavor. Thankfully I got another guy in the yard to come over and start the thru-hull while I held the mess in place.
So after the thin block was cured, and the bolts in the thick blocks I would insert a thru hull from the outside. The thru hulls are too long and will need to be cut, but I wanted to wait until all the blocks are in for fear of cutting them too short. The thru-hulls being too long meant I could steady the thru-hull with a finger while threading the thick backing plate/ seacock/ 406 thickened epoxy combo on a few threads. Using any means necessary to steady the seacock I would climb out of the boat and give the thru-hull a few more turns from the outside, hopefully until it bottoms out. Then, back into the boat and I would begin to unthread the nuts. (I skipped telling you I threaded in the nuts, then slipped the thru hull over the top) by unthreading the nuts equally the thru-hull pulls against the hull and compresses the thick block into the thin one. I let that cure over night and the next day I have one hell of a solid base for the seacock.
The head inlet was a bit trickier. The hull liner made is so there was a 1 1/2” gap between the hull and the liner. I opted to cut the liner out so I could install the plates like I have been. Once the plates are in place I can add a filet of thickened epoxy and then the entire sole can get a coat of paint. I cut the liner, (more like drilled it) today. I got the thin plate in place, but missed taking a photo.
The next step is to epoxy the hole, so if the thru-hull leaks a bit, the water won’t soak into the oak. One good coat should do. Then each block will be coated in some Pettit 4700/4701, which is their epoxy barrier coat. I’ll use this simply because I have some left over. The bilge will get a good coat too.
I’ve begun to read more on the Atomic 4 and am creating a mental check list on how to put some things back together (prop, shaft, coupler). I need to re-wire it, install a battery, hook up the throttle and shift cables. A good tune up would be nice, plugs, oil, filters. Then there is the whole exhaust thing. There is the stock standpipe and a water lift. I don’t know enough yet, but if anyone has knowledge of either system they want to share feel free. Better yet, come on down to the boat and I’ll feed you beer!
I brief update. Boat should be in the water in a few weeks. Not sure where she’ll be moored just yet, someplace with direct access to the sound and cheap.
The bottom is now 100% painted, even the spots where the stands were. The boot stripe got it’s final coat yesterday. Now the tape is off, the boat is really looking nice. Getting the waterline on really makes the topsides look sleeker.
I’ve been slowly knocking out the thru-hull upgrade. The boat came to me with ball valves screwed onto the thru-hulls. While this seemed to work fine for the last 30 years, I wanted to make sure they were as bullet proof as possible. Most of the ball valves were heavily corroded and took some serious leverage to open/ close. This created some noticeable flex at the base of the valve/ hull.
Due to time and money, both lacking. I chose to make my backing plates out of white oak. I’ve used it for exterior bits before on the Westerly’s companionway. I know it holds up to the environment fine. It’s also cheap, and easy enough to cut/ drill.
Originally I planned to have a single block, but once I looked into it closer, the hull has this sort of nipple due to the thru-hulls being flush mounted. So, I ended up making a second block, ½ as thick and making the center much larger. I used the grinder and the flap disc to form the back side of the block to fit to the nipple. Adding a single layer of mat when each was epoxied to the hull, along with epoxy thickened with 406 filler made sure each thin plate was sealed on the backside and had a good surface area to bond.
Once the first plate had cured I put the bolts in through the backside of the main block. When I counter sunk the blocks the counter sink was just a hair smaller than the bolt head which turns out to work really well. By threading the nut down the bolt was pulled into the counter sink and locked into place.
Now working with wet epoxy and thru-hulls is not the best one person job. Lacking a personal assistant, I had to make it work. 1st off, doing the main block after the thin one had cured made the job simpler. I tried to do both blocks once and it was a stressful endeavor. Thankfully I got another guy in the yard to come over and start the thru-hull while I held the mess in place.
So after the thin block was cured, and the bolts in the thick blocks I would insert a thru hull from the outside. The thru hulls are too long and will need to be cut, but I wanted to wait until all the blocks are in for fear of cutting them too short. The thru-hulls being too long meant I could steady the thru-hull with a finger while threading the thick backing plate/ seacock/ 406 thickened epoxy combo on a few threads. Using any means necessary to steady the seacock I would climb out of the boat and give the thru-hull a few more turns from the outside, hopefully until it bottoms out. Then, back into the boat and I would begin to unthread the nuts. (I skipped telling you I threaded in the nuts, then slipped the thru hull over the top) by unthreading the nuts equally the thru-hull pulls against the hull and compresses the thick block into the thin one. I let that cure over night and the next day I have one hell of a solid base for the seacock.
The head inlet was a bit trickier. The hull liner made is so there was a 1 1/2” gap between the hull and the liner. I opted to cut the liner out so I could install the plates like I have been. Once the plates are in place I can add a filet of thickened epoxy and then the entire sole can get a coat of paint. I cut the liner, (more like drilled it) today. I got the thin plate in place, but missed taking a photo.
The next step is to epoxy the hole, so if the thru-hull leaks a bit, the water won’t soak into the oak. One good coat should do. Then each block will be coated in some Pettit 4700/4701, which is their epoxy barrier coat. I’ll use this simply because I have some left over. The bilge will get a good coat too.
I’ve begun to read more on the Atomic 4 and am creating a mental check list on how to put some things back together (prop, shaft, coupler). I need to re-wire it, install a battery, hook up the throttle and shift cables. A good tune up would be nice, plugs, oil, filters. Then there is the whole exhaust thing. There is the stock standpipe and a water lift. I don’t know enough yet, but if anyone has knowledge of either system they want to share feel free. Better yet, come on down to the boat and I’ll feed you beer!
I brief update. Boat should be in the water in a few weeks. Not sure where she’ll be moored just yet, someplace with direct access to the sound and cheap.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
thru hulls
The Marleon was proving a hassel.
long story short there were too many special orders. got bronze.
thank god for my Fisheries discount.
To keep it simple and uniform I'm going from 1/2" to 3/4: for the raw water intake.
and from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" on the head overboard discharge.
I also ordered the thru hull transducers for speed/temp and depth. They should arrive in a couple weeks. I'll wait on the display unit for cost reasons. but at least the holes will be filled and the boat can float.
It was raining good this morning so I'll wait a couple days until lI get the next 2 coats on the bottom.
long story short there were too many special orders. got bronze.
thank god for my Fisheries discount.
To keep it simple and uniform I'm going from 1/2" to 3/4: for the raw water intake.
and from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" on the head overboard discharge.
I also ordered the thru hull transducers for speed/temp and depth. They should arrive in a couple weeks. I'll wait on the display unit for cost reasons. but at least the holes will be filled and the boat can float.
It was raining good this morning so I'll wait a couple days until lI get the next 2 coats on the bottom.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
I'm still working.....
Finally after week s of fiberglass work, sanding and sore arms the bottom paint is on, well at least the 1st coat. Above the waterline is black and white, classy like a tuxedo. But when she heels over, sexy!
But let me back track a bit. Work did stop on the boat for a long time while we did a major bathroom remodel at Alia’s place. But, nothing lights a fire under your pants like an eviction notice. The city/ state still don’t know what their doing or when. I was told I had to be out by the 28th of last month. But, a couple other boat owners were told May and June. So My plan is to work on getting the boat float ready and keep working until I get a notice taped to the boat.
Then I’ll just put her in the water and get the rigging set up and go from there. I can sail just fine with a less than finished interior.
Over the last few weeks I spent a lot of time re-doing the hull to keel joint. I was undecided on this, because I had to get out of the yard I thought about just letting it be, but I had a bad feeling about it. I was proven right when I took a grinder to the filler. The boat has been out of the water for 18+ months but there were still pockets of water in there. Also the leading edge was 100% filler, and the whole thing had minimal cloth. I re-did the joint with cloth and mat and filler, but less than what was there before.
I feel confident that the joint will have a long waterproof life.
The next task was to decide what I was going to do about the thru-hulls and lack of proper seacocks.
I knew I needed to install backing plates and real ball valve seacocks but I was undecided about the backing plate material and seacock material too. For cost and time reasons I’ll go with wood plates sealed up good with epoxy. For the seacocks I was set on bronze…. Until I tried to get the old ones out. I’ll go with Marleon. All the ball valves were so corroded it took a lot of leverage to get them to open/ close but they still moved. Getting them free from the thru-hull was another matter. I was able to get the thru-hull nut off which let the thru hull head drop down far enough to get my trusty sawz-all in between the head and hull and I cut out all but one thru-hull. One did come out, just like it should but this was enough to sway me to “plastic”. No corrosion or grounding issues.
I still need to go pick up the new thru-hulls and seacosks. Then buy lumber, and make up the plates. But I’m getting close!
Yesterday I applied two coats of Pettit’s epoxy barrier coat, followed this morning by one more coat and then this afternoon, the 1st of 2 or 3 coats of bottom paint. I went with Pettit’s Vivid red and wow!
I’m starting a new job so I’m not sure what my schedule will be like over the next couple weeks, but here soon I think(?) I’ll be working part time so my mornings can be spent down at the boat, or working in Alia’s next project……
This is what happens if you can't move your boat......
But let me back track a bit. Work did stop on the boat for a long time while we did a major bathroom remodel at Alia’s place. But, nothing lights a fire under your pants like an eviction notice. The city/ state still don’t know what their doing or when. I was told I had to be out by the 28th of last month. But, a couple other boat owners were told May and June. So My plan is to work on getting the boat float ready and keep working until I get a notice taped to the boat.
Then I’ll just put her in the water and get the rigging set up and go from there. I can sail just fine with a less than finished interior.
Over the last few weeks I spent a lot of time re-doing the hull to keel joint. I was undecided on this, because I had to get out of the yard I thought about just letting it be, but I had a bad feeling about it. I was proven right when I took a grinder to the filler. The boat has been out of the water for 18+ months but there were still pockets of water in there. Also the leading edge was 100% filler, and the whole thing had minimal cloth. I re-did the joint with cloth and mat and filler, but less than what was there before.
I feel confident that the joint will have a long waterproof life.
The next task was to decide what I was going to do about the thru-hulls and lack of proper seacocks.
I knew I needed to install backing plates and real ball valve seacocks but I was undecided about the backing plate material and seacock material too. For cost and time reasons I’ll go with wood plates sealed up good with epoxy. For the seacocks I was set on bronze…. Until I tried to get the old ones out. I’ll go with Marleon. All the ball valves were so corroded it took a lot of leverage to get them to open/ close but they still moved. Getting them free from the thru-hull was another matter. I was able to get the thru-hull nut off which let the thru hull head drop down far enough to get my trusty sawz-all in between the head and hull and I cut out all but one thru-hull. One did come out, just like it should but this was enough to sway me to “plastic”. No corrosion or grounding issues.
I still need to go pick up the new thru-hulls and seacosks. Then buy lumber, and make up the plates. But I’m getting close!
Yesterday I applied two coats of Pettit’s epoxy barrier coat, followed this morning by one more coat and then this afternoon, the 1st of 2 or 3 coats of bottom paint. I went with Pettit’s Vivid red and wow!
I’m starting a new job so I’m not sure what my schedule will be like over the next couple weeks, but here soon I think(?) I’ll be working part time so my mornings can be spent down at the boat, or working in Alia’s next project……
This is what happens if you can't move your boat......
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